Typed Slowly Treatment for Southern Culture Myopia.

10Jan/100

Brewed Slowly: #3 Red Ale

On to the next beer.

Last Sunday, I brewed a Red Ale kit that was given to me as a Christmas present this year. I've put off posting about it most of this week. And for no good reason, really. But now I've found myself in front of the computer with my notes in hand, so here it is.

The software:

12 oz. specialty grains (I have no idea what grains were included--this kit is secretive)

7 lbs Briess golden light extract (liquid)

1 oz. Amarillo hops

amarillo hop pellets and my hand

amarillo hop pellets and my hand

1 oz. Ahtanum hops

Nottingham Dry yeast

I brewed this beer by myself, but I followed the same process as we always have. First, I brought 1.5 gallons of water up to 150 F. Then I steeped the mystery/specialty grains at (or around) 150 F for half an hour.

it doesn't look red, but it'll be red

it doesn't look red, but it'll be red

After I took out the grains (they then went into the compost cause we're green), I brought the liquid up to a boil and added the 7 lbs of extract and the 1 oz. of Amarillo hops.

Then I waited, stirred, waited, stirred, waited, ad nauseam for an hour.

After it had boiled for an hour, I took it off the heat and added the 1 oz. of Ahtanum hops. Then I put the pot in my icebath of sorts. (Lately, my ice baths are me putting the pot of wort into a sink full of cold water and some ice packs. This is not the most efficient way to cool the wort, nor is it the way I'd recommend doing so. I have yet to get/make a wort chiller, so until I do, this is how my wort does its thing.) When the temp. reached about 115 F, I poured the cool wort into the fermentor and added enough water to top it off at 5 gallons (I also put at least a gallon of water in the freezer about an hour prior so that some of the water is really cold and will drop the wort temp. down to a nice 90-95 F).

This kit came with Danstar dry yeast, so all I had to do was rip that bad boy open and dump it in the fermentor. Also, I made sure that I aerated the wort by stirring it up while it cooled and making splashes when I poured it in the fermentor. Yeasts need O2 to live y'all.

The OG was 1.052 before fermentation.

--

Since I've waited so long to post this entry, I've actually already bottled the beer. Today I was busy with bottling this beer and cooking up the next batch of beer. Which you'll have to wait to find out about. Suspense--ooh.

red ale ready to get bottled

red ale ready to get bottled

The final gravity was 1.014, so the final alcohol content came out to 3.99 ABV.

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31Dec/090

Brewed Slowly Update: #2 Cherry Stout

The cherry stout that we made for the holidays has been ready to drink for some time now. It's been busy around here, and most of the beers have gone out as presents, but I'm finally making time to talk about it here.

Our cherry stout, also known as our Red-nose Stout, is pretty self explanatory. It's black as any stout, and it smells that way as well (like a stout, not black). You can smell the cherries somewhat, and you can taste them up front. Then you taste the stout. It's a pretty heavy beer. We added extra malt to hike up the alcohol content (which came out around 8% or so), and we primed it with dry malt extract. I wouldn't call Guinness a thick beer, although many people would, but this stout is thick. It has a strong, thick body and taste.

Even though I'm a documented non-fan of fruity beers, this beer I like. The cherry flavor takes a backseat to the strong stout taste, and that's good in my book.

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9Nov/090

Brewed Slowly: Homebrewing Basics

I was recently asked to write up a post that covers the basics of homebrewing, and I realized that I probably should have done so at the beginning of this blog's existence. In any case, I'm doing it now. If you're considering starting to brew your own beer, or if you're just interested in the process, hopefully this post will give you an idea of how it works and where you need to go to get started.

As I've told several friends when they ask me about homebrewing--it's too easy and too cheap not to do it.

The easiest way to start brewing your own beer is to get a starter homebrew kit. There are tons of websites that sell these kits (starting around $100), and if you have a local homebrew store, they should be available there as well. These kits vary in price and quality and in the amount of equipment you get.  I got my kit at Homebrewers.com. This kit is a deal because it includes an all inclusive beer ingredient kit, which will typically cost anywhere from $20 to $50 (and all you have to do is follow directions and you've made your first beer). Since I've only made extract beers so far, I can only explain how it works making beer from extract. When I get to making beers using all-grain, I'll definitely do a description of it as well.

Making the beer is about as easy as following a recipe for chili. In the interest of brevity, I'll keep this description pretty general, otherwise this post will be longer than you want to read--assuming you are still reading now.

If you're still here, good deal.

Basically, a homebrewer will steep some specialty grains, which contribute several things to the beer (i.e. taste, head retention, color) around 150 Fahrenheit for 30 min to 1 hour in as much water as will safely fit into the pot, then add malt extract (liquid or dry), bittering hops, and boil for an hour. Most people add hops at various times during the boil to get different tastes/aromas. After the boil is done, the wort (what's in the pot) is cooled to a temperature safe to pitch the yeast at. Usually, I'll chill the pot in an ice bath and get the temp down to about 110 F, then top it off with enough cold water to make 5 gallons and it'll drop the temp, usually, to around 80 F or so. This lower temperature is necessary so that the yeast will proof, and not die, when added to the wort. After the yeast is added to the wort, the fermentor is lidded and the airlock is fitted into the lid.

Then it's time to wait. We all know what they say about the waiting.

After a few days, give or take, the fermentation will be complete (the airlock will stop bubbling). Then the fermented, but uncarbonated, beer is transferred to bottles or a keg system, where it can be carbonated in various ways, and aged anywhere from 2 weeks to several months or even years. I can't ever wait that long.

I know that was a pretty fast run-through on how to brew at home, but I think that makes the process somewhat clear or at least demystifies it a little. There are myriad other variables that can change the process, such as using grain instead of extract, dry-hopping, throwing in additives (honey, gypsum, salts), wort-chilling, or transferring to secondary fermentors, but we'll save them for another day.

There are enough books on homebrewing to fill a small library, and these books can be very helpful to not helpful at all. I highly recommend Charlie Papzian's The Joy of Hombrewing and Homebrewing for Dummies for beginning homebrewers. They both cover the basics and come with lots of good recipes for brewers of all levels.

I'll do some posts in the future where I tackle some of the separate steps involved in brewing, what their purposes are, and different ways to complete them.

Last, but absolutely not least, to really get the most out homebrewing beer, it is essential to have some beers on hand, preferably homemade, to ease through the process without worry. That and a good stereo system and music. Iron Maiden records work pretty well. As does anything by the Replacements or Paul Westerberg (for obvious reasons).

Now, go get your ass a homebrew kit and make some beer.

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